Livingstone
ZAMBIA
We're in Livingstone, I Presume?
By AARON
Tuesday, April 12, 2011
After Kande Beach and a nice rest for a couple of days, it was back on the road and on our way to Livingstone and Victoria Falls. A couple of highlights along the way did occur though, one being that while camping in the town of Chipata, Zambia, we happened to run into the Zambian President, Rupiah Banda. Just by happenstance, the president was staying at our campsite after a brief visit to the agricultural town of Chipata, and was more than welcoming as we shook hands, took pictures and shared a couple of beers with the humble man. I say humble because he really did have an aura of servitude to him, and ask almost anyone in Zambia and they’ll tell you the same – the guy is beloved there. That is why it made it all the more comical that he and his advisory staff were sporting shirts that had his face on it. Oh well, he is the president after all.
After a quick stop in Lusaka, the capital of Zambia, and also home to one of our group tournaments which involved beer chugging, darts and pool, we finally arrived to the touristy town of Livingstone, Zambia.
Named after Dr. David Livingstone, the town is home to Victoria Falls, overpriced hotels, and overpriced restaurants. Unfortunately, like all touristy towns across the world, Livingstone has been overrun by posh hotels serving food and drinks at prices that would make Bill Gates blush. Okay, it’s not that bad, but you definitely feel the strain on your budget much more here than in other towns.
The first day in Livingstone was spent visiting Victoria Falls, which were pretty amazing. The falls themselves are what you would expect from one of the largest waterfalls in the world – thunderous, waves of water crashing over the edge of the river into the valley below while the mist from the mere impact rises up higher than the drop-off point itself.
After getting thoroughly soaked on the walkways around the falls, we headed to our campsite called Waterfront, where we were shown a video of all the overpriced activities we could do while in Livingstone. Touted as one of the major “adrenaline” capitals of Africa, even the guide books state “if you have enough money (and I mean ENOUGH), you can satisfy your craving for extreme sports and activities while in Livingstone”. With excursions ranging from Bungee Jumping 115 meters off a bridge, to helicopter rides over the falls, whatever is your adrenaline-pumping pleasure, Livingstone has it.
Lyndi, being the seasoned traveler that she is, did not fall prey to any of the wacky camera angles and ‘extreme’ footage of the different excursions. Hell, she didn’t even flinch at the intense music accompanied by the quick “pan in, pan out” camera shots that “Safari Par Excellence” offered us. I on the other hand, did.
Being a huge animal lover, I couldn’t resist the “Lion Encounter” excursion, which offers a walk through open game parks… with lions. Rescued and part of an integration system designed by one of the forerunners of the field, these lions undergo a 4 step system that eventually sets them free and inserts them back into the wild. Previous integrations systems had a 30-35% success rate, while this non-profit organization boasts a stunning 98%. Tourists are able to walk with 2 lions that are in “stage 2”, which are lions anywhere from 4-17 months old and takes them on daily walks to slowly introduce them to a wild landscape, with flora and fauna that they may encounter while in the wild. Although these lions have human contact, they are still wild and the goal is to keep them that way, thus increasing their chances of survival on their own. I was stoked.
So next morning, I was picked up along with 7 other passengers and we were taken off to the base camp for the lion excursion and prepped for our 1 hour walk. Even though I had just forked over $140USD for this short excursion, it was nice to hear that all the money went to the operation and funding of this facility because let’s face it – lions aren’t cheap. Between food, housing, and then the 2,500 acre plus lands that are used in the integration systems, this operation is not small change.
Was it a bit overpriced? Of course, but was it worth it? Oh yeah. We got 2 female lions that were 17 months old each, which meant they were just one month off from being released into stage 3, which meant no more human contact. And boy were they big. I mean, as fun as the cute, cuddly cubs would have been, we were walking along with 2 lions that could have ripped us to shreds, with their backs easily reaching the height of my hips.
The walk was amazing as we were told about the lions while we walked with them, and were able to see them in their natural habitat. We even got an out of the ordinary treat, when both of the lions started hunting some monkeys and both lionesses darted up a tree to further pursue their prey.
Which brings me to a valuable lesson: if ever being chased by a lion, don’t climb a tree. They will climb it just as easily and then eat you. You can thank me next time this happens.
So after an hour or so, and numerous pictures petting them as they took their breaks on the walks, we headed back to the campsite satisfied. And broke.
The remainder of our time in Livingstone was spent trying to mail off the many souvenirs that Lyndi and I had bought during our travels. Eventually overcoming that task, which required a visit to the bubble wrap store, bank and 2 times to the post office, our packages were off to Portland, and hopefully will arrive there unbroken. Hopefully.
Another night was spent with me and our tour leader, Tanya, going on a “Sunset Cruise” where you get food, drinks and a cruise on the river all for $55USD. Overpriced, but those creative money grubbers at Safari Par Excellence drive a hard bargain, offering the sunset cruise for just $20USD if you purchase one of their other excursions. So while Lyndi drank some super-infused rocket fuel rum back at the campsite with some friends, Tanya and I sipped gin and tonics on the water while we ate spring rolls and watched as hippos playfully fought in the water. Oh yeah, and we also got mooned, twice, by the supposed “adults” on the cruise boat next to us. Not that I’m old, or some square, but when I see a bunch of 25 year old guys mooning me, all in the name of trying to shack up with whatever girl they can get really drunk that night, I can’t help but not be impressed. God knows I’ve bared my white backside to many a passerby, but that was when I was like 14 years old. Best of luck to all of them as the next day they can send their prospective shag a note with two boxes checked yes or no, or possibly pull their hair on the playground at recess. But I digress.
Another nice highlight of our time spent in Livingstone was the surprise visit from Bill Bayliss, the Fleet Manager in Cusco, Peru. Working with Bill in Cusco for over a year, it was a pleasant surprise to see him in Livingstone, there on work detail, and both of us unaware that the other would be there. Always good to see a friendly face and a lot of time over those 4 days were spent catching up with him and sharing a story and a beer at the bar.
A sad highlight of the time spent there was the parting of 6 of our group members in Shane, Chris, Kelly, Joseph, George and Amelia. Even though we spent only 2 weeks together, it’s amazing the friendships you form while cooped up together on a bus, forced to spend time with each other 24/7. So after saying our goodbyes to our 6 fellow passengers, Lyndi and I then prepared ourselves for the 6 new passengers that would be replacing them and traveling with us down to Cape Town. Not that we compare or anything, but the previous six have set the bar pretty high…
So what do we take away with us from Livingstone? Memories of monkeys stealing food and clothes from numerous campsites will definitely fall on the list, along with gorgeous sunsets, good friends and good times. Lions that climb trees with the greatest of ease, and hippos playfully fighting, opening their jaws a full 180 degrees. I just realized that whole last sentence rhymed. Damn I’m good.
So bring your camera fully charged and a whole wad of cash, because while Livingstone offers something for everyone, it does so at a price. Rumors of first-born sons being signed off echo throughout the reception areas…
