Chobe National Park

BOTSWANA

Hippos and Hindrances

By LYNDI

Saturday, April 16, 2011

In case you’ve never been to Africa, let me familiarize you with the common expression used down here, “This Is Africa” – “T.I.A.” for short. As with many developing countries, the way things are done down here often don’t make sense, and all you can do is shrug your shoulders, laugh about it, and mutter “TIA”.

One of our better examples so far was our border crossing from Zambia into Botswana. Everything was going just fine – we checked out of Zambia and then headed to the ferry crossing to get us into Botswana – when Africa hit.

A male kudu in Chobe National Park

First off, there was only one ferry working that day, and the ferry only held two trucks or several cars, and then however many people can cram on. As usual, there was quite a line-up for trucks to get through, so our Tucan truck patiently waited in line. First in line was a passenger bus that slowly attempted to load onto the ramshackle ferry, but only made it halfway on before it broke down – straddling land and vessel and effectively blocking anyone else trying to board or depart.

In itself, that’s not entirely troublesome – old buses break down. The amazing part is that nobody did anything about it. Passengers filed off, men looked around and stared, and several people sought shade to take a nap. Amazingly, after one hour of nothing happening except the ferry line extending, there was still absolutely no progress.

By this time it was past noon, the sun was high in the sky, and shade was a rare commodity, so our new group of Tucan passengers huddled under umbrellas, talked to the locals, and just sweated it out with the rest of the Africans.

Finally, after three hours of zero progress, a couple men boarded the bus, women brought over a few wooden planks to assist the broken vehicle, the engine started, and the bus miraculously embarked on the ferry. It didn’t make a whole lot of sense to us Westeners, but I guess This Is Africa.

Warthogs running through town

And so we arrived in Botswana into a small town called Kasane, just outside of Chobe National Park a tad late. To me, Botswana looks like the iconic Africa – long gone are Malawi’s hills, the greenery of Tanzania, or the coastline of Zanzibar. This is low-shrub territory, dried grasses on flat land, and endless blue skies. Just like they told us it would be in “The Lion King”.

We set up camp and made a quick run into town for supplies and were delighted to find warthogs running freely through the streets. It was an early night because we had a 5am wakeup call for a gamedrive in the morning.

Our open-air safari vehicle in Chobe

Heading out at 6am the following day, Aaron and I were impressed to run into a small herd of elephants – on the highway. This seemed to be the biggest surprise in Botswana – animals don’t keep to the National Park boundaries like they do in other countries. Warthogs roaming streets, elephants sauntering down the highway, baboons at camp – it gave us the impression that animals earn a little bit more respect down here and aren’t just confined to park enclosures.

Our game drive took about 3 hours, and considering Chobe isn’t one of the major game parks in Africa, we were pretty impressed with everything we saw – lion cubs playing, plenty of gazelles and impalas, buffaloes and elephants.

Elephants aren't good at hide and seek...

But the best part was yet to come. Ever since I was a little girl, I’ve loved hippos. They’re chubby, they’re elusive – just bobbing their eyes and ears up every now and again – and dangerous. Hippos are some of the most dangerous animals in the wild because they will attack humans and they are deceptively fast. So that evening there was an optional sunset cruise on the Chobe River that I wasn’t about to miss.

Even though this was just on a normal boat – not a booze cruise like Aaron had in Livingstone – we had a Do-It-Yourself Booze Cruise. Our tour leader Tanya packed cheese and crackers, we loaded up a cooler full of ice and beer, and boarded a pontoon boat for some hippo viewing. And what a show they put on for us! It didn’t take long to spot our first pod of hippopotami (-muses?), who were snorting and yawning and generally making a lot of commotion for the viewers. There was a little bit of play fighting, there were some tiny little baby hippo heads popping up, and there must have been about 20 surfacing in intervals for us.

The DIY Booze Cruise in Chobe National Park

Besides the impressive hippos, we also saw a few large bull elephants coming down to the water for a drink, large male kudu (elk-like animals) and lots of bright colored, funny sounding birds. The only downside of the night was when we were watching the Blacksmith bird (so-called because he makes a tink-tink sound) on the roof of our boat, and Aaron tipped his head back for a better view and sent the sunglasses on his head deep into the Chobe. Well, that and some pushy German guy shoving us out of the way so he could get the best shots. Which was okay, our beer was in back anyways.

Most impressive was the sunset. It’s amazing how African sunsets all seem to start out golden and then gradually fade to a deep red before setting behind their reflection in the river. So we wore out our camera batteries on our cruise, I got to see my beloved hippos up-close and personal, and Aaron got to go shopping for new sunglasses. All in all a great visit.