Colonia

URUGUAY

Uruguay's Sportguese History

By LYNDI

Monday, November 1, 2010

The bus from Montevideo to Colonia del Sacramento was a quick and easy 4 hour trip. Once again, I’d been to Colonia a few times while working for Tucan so knew the ins and outs of the quaint, historical town. First on order was to find a place to sleep for the next few nights, so we followed one of the town’s 3 streets until we found a nice little hostel “El Español” close to the city center.

I was well aware that we had booked into El Español for two nights when there is clearly only a few hours worth of sight-seeing in Colonia, but we were in no hurry. So after about 3 hours, Aaron and I had checked in to the hostel, set everything up, walked through the cobblestoned historic district, bought some delicious alfajores (carmel-filled cookies popular in Argentina and Uruguay) and returned to the hostel. Hmmmm. Luckily it was a beautiful day so Aaron and I occupied the rest of our day sitting outside a cute café sipping a nice cold cerveza as we watched tourists amble by. We found one of Colonia’s markets and bought supplies for a nice home-cooked dinner and had a nice evening at the hostel.

Cobblestoned streets of Colonia

It had been a very, very long time since we’d stayed in a hostel where the other travelers are actually friendly and talkative. On the one hand, we’d been camping quite a bit and hadn’t had an opportunity to meet other travelers while in Brazil, then in Punta del Este – the one night we stayed in a hostel – it was like pulling teeth to get people to talk to us. Aaron was able to chat up a French couple for a few minutes and I made pleasant conversation with some American exchange students – but we’d found that in that hostel nearly everyone was traveling in big groups and therefore didn’t have much reason to talk to strangers that they’d never see again after a few hours. Fair enough. So it was refreshing to meet a Canadian guy that is a chiropractor in Cuzco and a Dutch girl that wanted to shoot the breeze with strangers like us.

Slow paced life in Colonia

So for our last full day in Uruguay, the Dutch girl and I headed out to a Shipwreck and Maritime Museum. One of the great things about Colonia is that it was an enormous strategic stronghold way back in the colonial days. Not only is Colonia right across the bay from Buenos Aires, but it is also immediate access to the Rio de Plata and waterways further inland. For that reason, the town changed hands between the Spanish and the Portugese no less than 8 times. A walk through the historic district shows off the two very distinct styles that the colonists left behind. The Spanish built square buildings of cement with flat roofs while the Portugese used a more stucco material with sloped, tiled roofs. Naturally, there were plenty of battles between the warring nations during their centuries of colonization, so a maritime museum showing actual material from the ancient wrecked ships sounded just up my alley.

The helpful lady at the reception of our hostel directed us to which bus we needed to use to get there which made our arrival to the museum quite simple. We got off the bus right next to a sign pointing down the street to the museum. Perfect! We walked up to the museum – could even see a giant ship with all it’s masts outside – to see the large red sign “Cerrado”. Closed? On a Wednesday afternoon? There were no opening hours or any indication that life existed beyond the gate, so instead we walked to a little shop selling sodas and bread and had a very meager lunch.

One of our favorite cafes in Colonia

The buses returning to town only passed once an hour, so about an hour later we returned to our hostel disappointed and slightly bloated. The reception lady asked how we liked the museum, so I told her it had been closed. And you know what? She knew! She said it’s been closed all year but thought we would like to see the ship outside the museum from behind the closed gates. Ummm… yeah. Thanks. The weirdest part is that I even asked her how much the entrance was and she told me how much it would cost to enter, told me how to get there, a little bit about the exhibits, but completely failed to mention that it was closed all year. Right.

Our next order of business was to buy ferry tickets to Buenos Aires. The Buquebus ferry runs between B.A. and Colonia several times per day and is only about US$20. Unfortunately, if you are trying to buy tickets the day beforehand, apparently those cheap tickets are already sold out. So we bought tickets instead for US$30… at 5:30am the next morning! Yes!

Then we decided to take some more photos of the historic district with the light starting to fade to get those dramatic shadows that make us look like really good photographers. So we headed out for another walk around town – and took a whole 3 photos before the camera died. Great. Instead Aaron, the Dutch girl and I went back to the grocery store and bought some of Uruguay’s famous Tannat wine, steaks and vegetables (Gabs and Claire had inspired us) and had a great dinner.

We also were quite popular at the hostel that night because we cooked waaaaay too much food and fed about 3 others. It was an early night since we had to get up at 4am the next morning so we could be at the Buquebus terminal at 4:30.

So goodbye Uruguay, goodbye Sportugese history and hello Argentina – incredible wine, breathtaking hikes in Patagonia – and hello to an additional traveling partner that would be joining us in a few short days.