Lago de Yojoa

HONDURAS

Lakes, Hammocks & Microbrews

By AARON

Sunday, April 20, 2008

So unlike Lyndi’s horror story about the buses to Gracias, Honduras (which were true, BTW), we lucked out and had a very pleasant bus ride to Lake Yojoa, Honduras. Situated between San Pedro Sula (north end of Honduras), and Tegulcigalpa (south end), Lake Yojoa is a beautiful lake, surrounded by mountains, and tiny towns that offer places to eat, sleep, and take part in any lake activity you can think of (legally).

After browsing through different places to stay at, we came upon a no brainer. This is what the write up said, “Robert Dale, newcomer to the Lake Yojoa area, is an ex-brewmaster from Oregon, who owns D & D Bed and Breakfast. You can sample his microbrews for about $1US a mug…”. I’m sure there was more written on the place, but that’s all Lyndi and I needed to see. An Oregonian brewmaster, making his own beer right in the heart of Honduras??? Think of traversing through a desert, (full of people with machetes), thirsty, hungry, when all of a sudden you see a beautiful tropical oasis like none other. A tropical oasis that happens to serve cold microbrewed beer and homemade blueberry pancakes for breakfast. We had found our Mecca.

The WWII plane that brought us to La Ceiba

Our stay at Bob’s (that’s the name of the owner) was great. We met some fun people there, (Don, who apparently has smoked WAY too much illegal substances back in the day… but a really nice guy), and even went on a waterfall excursion to the beautiful Pulhapanzak Waterfalls. Our second day there we decided to go visit the waterfalls. This is about a half hour drive north of where we were staying, which usually means you haggle with the tuk-tuks and take chicken buses, but Don was traveling Central America in his Toyota 4-Runner and GRACIOUSLY offered to take Lyndi, me, a girl named Jennifer, and himself up to the falls free of charge! He really liked Jennifer. We arrived at the falls around noon, and you usually have to pay 40 Lempiras per person (around $2.50US) to get in, but fortunately for us, the ticket person was MIA.

Lyndi drinking well-deserved beer on the Coco Pando's patio

Pulhapanzak Falls has 2 different swimming areas, both before the dropoff, a restaurant, bathroom facilities, and optional extras like a canopy tour and the private waterfall tour. After Lyndi and I swam, and Don flirted with Jennifer, we grabbed a beer, and then paid our guide, Raphael, to take us on the private waterfall tour. The Pulhapanzak waterfall tour costs 100Lemps per person, and actually takes you behind the waterfall, into caves, and you can jump into lagoons that surround the bottom area. If you don’t take the tour, you can still get some great views of the waterfall and the surrounding beauty, but if you ever get the chance and are there – DO THE TOUR. That was the best 100 lempiras Lyndi and I had spent all trip.

Raphael has been working at the falls for about 10 years, since he was 11 (do the math), and started off by taking us to the base of the waterfall, down river, up towards where the falling water meets the water below. The entire time we were on this tour, we were no further than 20 meters from the waterfall. I had never been this close to a waterfall, at least one of this magnitude, and just the sheer power of it blew me away. Not only can you see the raw power, you can hear it. At our closest point to the waterfall, you could actully feel the power in your chest, as if you were standing next to a wall of bass speakers on full blast. Absolutely awesome.

Lyndi and I in front of Pulhapanzak Falls

All of us linked together, hand in hand, and carefully navigated our way behind the waterfall and into a cave that really reminded me of Tom Hanks’ crib while he was on the island in Castaway. We sat there for a while, listening to the waterfall, and then when we had had enough, Raphael took us out from under the falls, and we swam in surrounding small lagoons at the base, under rock formations, all while being no more than 15 meters from the crashing water. The final leg of the tour was the best, where Raphael pointed up and then led us to ledges high above the lagoons we were swimming in, and we jumped off (30 ft was the highest we got) into the different lagoons below. Now although this was for fun, there was a moderate level of danger present. The lagoons were small, and there was only a small window area where you could land, otherwise you land on a rock and, well, that’s just not fun. This is where we all wish we had already taken our Spanish lessons as Raphael pointed out the dangers, where to jump, and all the intricate details of what we need to do to successfuly live through this jump. In Spanish. But don’t worry, he did the jump first to show us where to land, and then would splash water in the area we should aim for in case we weren’t looking. Apparently these forms of communication, along with our limited Spanish knowledge were enough, being that we all survived unscathed. We even got Don to do it, who for being in his mid 50’s, was quite impressive. After a day at the waterfalls, we headed back to drink some microbrews and a nice bottle of tequila that Don, gracious traveler that he was, shared with us.

The next morning, Lyndi, Jennifer (our new friend from Canada, and secret love of Don), and I woke up at 4:45AM to meet our guide to go fishing on Lake Yojoa. Our guide for this tour was also named Raphael, so it was easy to remember considering yesterday’s guide. We followed Raphael, who carried bait, rods, paddles, and yes, a machete, to the row boat and headed out to the lake via a small canal. At this point I would like to tell you that the black bass were jumping – we all caught our weight in fish, Lyndi wrestled with an 8lb’er for a half hour, using nothing but a hook, worm, and a line wrapped around a roll-on deoderant bottle, I caught 2 fish on one hook, and Jennifer topped out the largest catch of the day- a 9 pound black bass…………………………..But none of that happened. Unfortunately, the only thing biting that morning were some mosquitos. Jennifer did catch a black-and-white striped prison t-shirt, and I did manage to catch the only fish of the day, one so small that I didn’t even notice he was caught until I brought in my line to check the bait. But on the bright side, the lake was beautiful. Leaving that early in the morning, Lyndi and I were able to get some great pictures of the sunrise, the mist coming off the water, and some local fishermen out for an early morning catch. After about 3 hours of no bass, we decided to head in and call it a morning.

Sunrise fishing at Lago de Yojoa

We decided to stay in our last night and get some quality time with our host, Bob, who entertained us on his guitar, and with his excellent selection of beer and music. We packed it in around 10pm, because we had to catch a shuttle at 5am the next morning to San Pedro Sula, where we would then treat ourselves and take a luxury bus all the way to Antigua, Guatemala, which is a 9 hour journey through the mountains and countryside of Honduras and Guatemala. As we packed everything up at 4:30 the next morning, we realized that this was our last stop in Honduras. From Utila to Copan, to Gracias and Lake Yojoa, we had a blast in all the towns, and realized we had picked a great place to end our stay in Honduras at D & D’s B&B.